The New Gatekeepers: How Capital Now Decides Fashion’s Breakout Brands
Tobi Ambah Tobi Ambah

The New Gatekeepers: How Capital Now Decides Fashion’s Breakout Brands

In today’s luxury market, the next “it” label is rarely left to chance. Behind cult brands and sudden global expansions sits a quiet network of investment arms and strategic funds deciding which names, categories and experiences receive the capital to scale. As growth slows and risk rises, these gatekeepers aren’t just backing fashion’s future — they’re actively scripting it.

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Dupes, Design and The Law: When Is Inspiration Theft?
Tobi Ambah Tobi Ambah

Dupes, Design and The Law: When Is Inspiration Theft?

When Dunnes Stores released a €15 tote in 2024 that looked strikingly like Longchamp’s iconic Le Pliage, the debate reignited: where does inspiration end and infringement begin? Dupes aren’t counterfeits, but they blur legal and cultural lines—praised as accessible by some, condemned as theft by others. The Longchamp case may reshape fashion’s uneasy balance between originality and imitation.

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