Borrowed, Branded, and Sold Back
Tobi Ambah Tobi Ambah

Borrowed, Branded, and Sold Back

Prada’s promised collaboration with Kolhapuri artisans reads like progress — until you remember it only happened after the brand sent an almost-identical sandal down the Milan runway, priced it at over $800, and “forgot” to credit the people who’ve made the design for centuries. That’s the point: cultural appropriation in fashion isn’t a one-off scandal, it’s a repeatable script — extract, mark up, rebrand as “inspired”, apologise only when the backlash becomes expensive. And the harm isn’t theoretical. It’s economic displacement, cultural erasure, and a hierarchy where marginalised communities are punished for what luxury sells as “editorial”. Ethical exchange isn’t complicated: collaborate from the start, credit loudly, share profits, and shift power — because respect isn’t radical. It’s the bare minimum.

Read More
Dressed for the Runway, Undressed for the Office
Tobi Ambah Tobi Ambah

Dressed for the Runway, Undressed for the Office

Lagos celebrates Nigerian fashion on global runways, yet corporate offices still treat native wear as unprofessional. This essay examines the colonial roots of that contradiction and asks why professionalism in Nigeria still refuses to look Nigerian.

Read More
The New Gatekeepers: How Capital Now Decides Fashion’s Breakout Brands
Tobi Ambah Tobi Ambah

The New Gatekeepers: How Capital Now Decides Fashion’s Breakout Brands

In today’s luxury market, the next “it” label is rarely left to chance. Behind cult brands and sudden global expansions sits a quiet network of investment arms and strategic funds deciding which names, categories and experiences receive the capital to scale. As growth slows and risk rises, these gatekeepers aren’t just backing fashion’s future — they’re actively scripting it.

Read More